Hot Tub and Spa Insulating Covers
FREE SHIPPING OF ALL INSULATING HOT TUB COVERS TO ANYWHERE IN THE CONTIGUOUS UNITED STATES ! ALL DELUXE STANDARD INSULATING SPA COVERS UP TO 96" (8 feet) ARE ONLY $319.95 INCLUDING DELIVERY ! WE ALSO OFFER SPA COVERS UP TO 108" LONG, AND A SPECIAL SWIM SPA COVER UP TO 16' !
Before & After #1 | Before & After #2
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| Deluxe Basic |
Deluxe Standard |
Deluxe Plus |
Deluxe Ultimate |
Extreme Standard |
Extreme Plus |
|
| Foam Density | 1 pound | 1½ pound | 2 pound | 3 pound | 1 pound | 1½ pound |
| Foam Thickness | 4" x 2" | 4" x 2" | 4" x 2" | 4" x 2" | 6" x 4" | 6" x 4" |
| R-value | R-13 | R-14 | R-15 | R-17 | R-21 | R-22 |
| Strength Rating | 1 | 1.5 | 2 | 4 | 1.66 | 2.49 |
| Overall weight (7') | 32 | 36 | 40 | 50 | 38 | 46 |
The most popular covers are the Deluxe Standard and the Extreme Standard. The foam core of the Deluxe Standard spa covers are a 1½ pound density, metal reinforced, EPS (expanded polystyrene) foam , tapered from 4" to 2". The foam core of the Extreme Standard spa covers are a 1 pound density, >metal reinforced, EPS (expanded polystyrene) foam , tapered from 6" to 4". The taper is necessary to allow accumulated water to easily run off. Many older, and some cheap covers are made of a flat foam which will allow water to puddle,causing the cover to sag, allowing more water to puddle, eventually breaking the cover.
Foam density refers to the weight of a cubic foot of foam. A 1½ lb. density is generally the ideal for a 4" thick cover. It has excellent strength and insulating ability, yet is light enough to maneuver on and off your spa. Lesser densities are NOT advised for a cover of this thickness due to their lack of strength. With our 6" thick cover, a 1 pound density is more than enough. It provide almost 50% more insulation value over our 4" cover, is stronger, yet is the same weight. Higher foam densities have additional strength, but only slightly more insulating ability. One of the many options we offer is upgrading to a higher density foam if additional strength is needed.
Please note, these measurements are the true measurement of the foam itself. It is not a nominal measurement, nor does it include the thickness of the vinyl or vapor wrap (you'd be surprised how many others don't use a "true" measurement, and add in thickness of the other materials used).
The Manufacturing Process of EPS Foam
Expanded Polystyrene, or EPS for short, is a lightweight, closed cell, rigid, plastic foam insulation material produced from solid beads of polystyrene. EPS's properties of low thermal conductivity, high compressive strength and excellent shock absorption properties make it an ideal material for many uses. Expansion is achieved by virtue of small amounts of pentane gas dissolved into the polystyrene base material during production. The gas expands under the action of heat, applied as steam, to form perfectly closed cells of EPS. These cells occupy approximately 40 times the volume of the original polystyrene bead. The EPS beads are then molded into appropriate forms suited to their application.
There are 3 manufacturing stages to attain EPS foam blocks:
Pre-expansion:
Polystyrene granules (resin) are expanded by free exposure to steam to form larger beads, each consisting of a series of non-interconnecting cells.
The raw material resin used to manufacture EPS is received in the form of small beads ranging from 0.5 to 1.3mm in diameter. These small beads are formulated and manufactured by the suppliers to contain a small percentage (4% - 5%) of the naturally occurring gas pentane. This gas is impregnated throughout the body of each small bead. The pre-expansion phase of manufacturing is simply the swelling of the small bead to almost 50 times its original size through the heating and rapid release of the gas from the bead during its glass transition phase.
Conditioning:
After expansion, the beads still contain small quantities of both condensed steam and pentane gas. As they cool, air gradually diffuses into the pores, replacing, in part, the other components. Most manufacturers run the finished beads through a dryer to remove any surface moisture. Then they're stored in large open storage bags for an aging process. Besides the steam and gas in the beads there are also areas of internal vacuum in the millions of cells created. This vacuum must be equalized to atmospheric pressure otherwise this delicate balance may result in the collapse, or implosion, of the bead. This process of aging the expanded beads allows the beads to fill back up with air and equalize. This aging can take from 12 hours to 48 hours, depending on the desired expanded density of the bead.After this process they're ready to be formed onto solid blocks of foam.
Molding:
The molding process involves taking the loose expanded beads and forming them into a solid block mass. A mold is filled with a specific amount of beads. A vacuum system evacuates any residual air from the mold. The vacuum is relieved by live steam which flows over the entire mass of beads in the cavity. This vacuum process softens the polymer structure of the bead surface and is immediately followed pressure compressing the beads and more live steam. The latent heat from the steam and subsequent pressure increase cause the beads to further expand. Since this is a confined environment, the only way the beads can expand is to fill up any voids between them causing the soft surfaces to fuse together into a polyhedral type solid structure. Pressure is released after a predetermined time and the loose beads are now fused into a solid block of foam. The density of the foam has been predetermined by the amount of pressure exerted on the beads while in the mold.
Following a short cooling period, the molded block is removed from the machine, and
after further curing and conditioning, may be cut or shaped as required using hot wire
elements or other appropriate techniques.
Marine Grade Vinyl
With a weight of 30oz. (per lineal yard), the vinyl of these covers is the heaviest available. It also exceeds the specifications of "Marine Grade Vinyl", and "Premium Grade Vinyl".
"Marine Grade Vinyl" was developed for the harsh climates of boating and the awning industry. To be classified as a marine grade, the vinyl has to meet certain requirements (whether these requirements are exceeded or not is another story). The vinyl used in our covers exceed all specified requirements of both "Marine Grade Vinyl", and "Premium Grade Vinyl"!
The following are the specifications of the vinyl used in our covers (helpful for making any comparisons);
- UV Rating & Weather Resistance : 1500+ hours
- Stabilized Pigment Rating : 500 hours
- Weight : 30oz per linear yard
- Thickness : .040
- Cold Crack Rating : -20°
- Abrasion Resistance : 200 Cycles
Unlike some covers where the vinyl cover is heat sealed together, another important feature of these covers is that they are completely double sewn together with the highest quality thread. Heat sealed seams become very brittle in the hot sun and freezing cold.
The vinyl in these covers, besides being the thickest in the industry, also has mildew inhibitors, UV stabilized coloring to prevent fading, increased resistance to chlorine and bromine and is available in 10 colors (see below).
Additionally, the vinyl's backing fabric, is a reinforced, 100% polyester mesh. Unlike cotton backing , it will not rot, is mildew resistant and adds exceptional strength.
Available Colors
Insulation R Value
"What is the R-value of your cover"? While this is the most common question asked when comparing covers, the answer can be the most deceptive. The following, though rather lengthy, explains insulation and R-value. The short answer to the R-value of our covers though is:
The Deluxe spa covers with standard 1½ pound density foam cores, have a minimum insulation value of R-14, the Extreme spa covers with the standard 1 pound density foam cores have a minimum insulation value of R-21
The insulating core of almost all spa covers is EPS (Expanded Polystyrene). The insulating value of this product is very specific, and is listed in the table below. Please note, the R-value shown is for 1 inch of thickness.
| Foam Density | R-Value/in. |
|---|---|
| 1.0 | 3.85 |
| 1¼ | 4.0 |
| 1½ | 4.17 |
| 2.0 | 4.35 |
Remember, all EPS foam of equal density has the sameR-value!
R-value describes a material's resistance to the flow of heat. The higher the R-value, the slower heat will travel or conduct through a material. Better insulating materials tend to have better R-values.
Heat flows by three mechanisms: conduction, convection, and radiation;
Conduction is the molecule-to-molecule transfer of kinetic energy (one molecule becomes energized and, in turn, energizes adjacent molecules). A cast-iron skillet handle heats up because of conduction through the metal.
Convection is the transfer of heat by physically moving the molecules from one place to another. Hot air rises; heated water thermosiphons; forced-air heating systems work by moving hot air from one place to another.
Radiation is the transfer of heat through space via electromagnetic waves (radiant energy). A campfire can warm you even if there is wind between you and the fire, because radiation is not affected by air.
R-values by definition, only measures an insulation's ability to resist heat loss by CONDUCTION.
The above's relationship to spas is this; heat from the spa water rises by convection and radiation. As it rises it heats the underside of the cover, then moves through the cover by conduction. Increasing the covers R-value reduces, or slows the rate of conduction. There are also two ways to reduce the rate of convection, the first being a floating blanket, the second being our optional exclusive Reflex Energy Shield used for the covers underside material.
R-value is a term coined by the FTC in response to a need for a way to compare the relative effectiveness of various forms of insulation. R-values are measured by testing laboratories (ASTM), usually in something called a guarded hot box. As air within the test hot box is heated, convection takes place, causing the heat to rise. As the heat rises it warms the underside of the foam where upon conduction of the heat through the foam begins. The R-value is the ability of the foam (or other material being tested) to slow this conduction. Heat flow through the foam is calculated by keeping one side of the material at a constant temperature, say 90°F (32°C), and measuring how much supplemental energy is required to keep the other side of the material at a different constant temperature, say 50°F (10°.C)--
Various industries are required to have their products R-value tested by ASTM under very exact testing perimeters. One of the parameters of this test is the temperature at which guarded hot box is heated to, AND the temperature the other side of the test material is kept at. Changing either of these temperatures will result in different R-value results. Once again, certain industries are required to use ASTM testing procedure and parameters. For these industries, when they list their products R-value (such as R-20) it's understood that the difference in temperatures of the testing procedure is 40 degrees (or R-20 @ 40°). It's also acceptable to list another R-value AS LONG as the temperature difference is listed ALSO (i.e. R-40 @ 20°). Here's the relationship to spa covers. SPA COVERS ARE NOT IN AN INDUSTRY REQUIRED TO HAVE R-VALUES TESTED ACCORDING TO ASTM STANDARDS! When comparing the R-value of a hot tub or spa covers it's important to ask what temperature difference the R-value was calculated at. Our covers are R-14 @ 40°.
Vapor Barrier
One of the many important features of an insulating cover is the vapor barrier surrounding the foam. The barrier used in our covers is a 6 mil. single-extruded, virgin bead, polyethylene sheeting. This extra thick sheeting is heat sealed around the foam core. As an added feature the sheeting is vacuumed of air during the sealing process. This prevents the cover from "bloating" from any trapped air expanding, when the sun beats down on it. Many cheaper cover manufacturers tape the poly sheeting closed to save costs, but eventually the tape fails and the cover will start absorbing water, getting heavier and heavier.
One of the options offered on these covers is to double wrap the foam core with a second layer of polyethylene sheeting. This is something no other manufacturer offers and we highly recommend it due to the following.
Covers have a small hole on the bottom side of the vinyl covering to allow any accumulated water and condensation to drain out. As much as this is an absolute necessity, it also allows evaporating chemicals to rise up into the covers interior (needless to say covers with an open mesh bottom are the worst). Over a long period of time these chemicals can start deteriorating the vapor barrier to a point where it becomes porous. The porosity then allows steam and evaporating water to penetrate into the foam insulating cores. One day science will probably develop a better vapor barrier (although those wanting to sell lots of covers may not use it), but until then doubling up the polyethylene sheeting will extend the life of your cover.
Continuous Hinge Seal
These covers come standard with a continuous insulated "hinge seal" to prevent heat
from escaping from an area most people don't even think about. Most other covers have what
are called "fingers" or "steam sealers" (below). These are two pads
that are placed on the underside of the cover, at the ends, between the two halves to
prevent steam and heat from escaping when the cover is installed on your spa. If you turn
one of these covers upside-down you'll actually see that they also push the two insulating
halves apart (below), leaving as large as a one inch gap between the two halves. This
is equal to having a hole the size of a basket ball in your cover, your INSULATING
cover!
Tie Down Straps
Each cover comes standard with four tie-downs equipped with locking child resistant safety latches. To assure the integrity and prevent the straps from ripping out (perhaps from high winds), the straps are sewn into the cover in four places, including the skirt. This makes them virtually tear-proof.
Besides aiding in keeping out unwanted visitors, the tie-downs, when properly used help to prevent strong winds from blowing off the cover. There is also the option of additional tie-downs.
The "locking latches" are molded after the quick release buckles found on sports equipment and have been specifically designed for spas! Each NMF Fastener may be locked down individually. They are quickly installed with three stainless steel screws (provided).
Spa Cover Handles
Unlike the handles on many
covers which tend to be a great weak point, these spa
cover handles have been designed and engineered to be one of the strongest! Handles are
great when the cover is new, but over a long period of time most covers eventually get a
bit heavier. Cover handles, having such a small attachment area can be easily torn off,
sometimes tearing the cover. Our cover's handles are made of extremely strong, 1½"
wide nylon webbing. Fully integrated into the spa cover, additional stitching and internal reinforcing
makes them some of the strongest available.
Spa Cover Hinge
With the current trend of cover
lifting devises (which we highly believe in) the
hinge is one of the most worked parts of a cover. This hinge is constructed of the
same high quality vinyl as the rest of the outer
cover. It is not simply two halves of the cover sewn together, but is a one piece
hinge, double stitched into each half of the cover. One of the options available is
additionally reinforcing the hinge by adding an extra layer consisting of the same
1½" wide nylon webbing the handles are made from.
This upgrade consists of a strip of nylon webbing running the entire length of the hinge!
While other covers hinges are their weakest point, this nylon webbing reinforcement makes
these hinges the absolute strongest possible!
This type of damage
can't happen with an Extreme Spa Cover
C-Channel Reinforcement
Running the entire
length of each piece of foam, along the hinge is a
2½" wide, 20 gauge galvanized steel C-channel support beam. This is the
heaviest gauge (thickest) reinforcement beam used in the industry, others tend to be 22 to
26 gauge. Galvanized steel is used for it's increased strength over aluminum, and also
because of it's greater resistance to chemicals (chlorine and bromine). C-channel is much
stronger than lesser expensive T-bar others may use.
If the possibility of this c-channel rusting has been made a concern to you, it really shouldn't be. The only way for this c-channel to rust is if the vapor barrier surrounding the foam is broken. If this happens the foam core of a cover will absorb water (getting heavier and heavier) long before the c-channel loses any integrity.
Custom Cover Skirt
The skirt of a cover is another of the many important parts. It needs to properly
protect the lip of your spa from the damaging rays of the sun, and be strong enough
to use for lifting your cover. These cover's skirts are double stitched into the cover for
strength, and gusseted to provide the best protection! One piece continuous skirts, which
are easier to manufacture, have many inherent problems as compared to skirts that are
gusseted (also called "slitted"). Gusseted skirts will hang much straighter and
have less tendency to bunch-up under the cover, preventing a proper seal between the cover
and the spa.
As the sun beats down on a cover, extreme heat can build up between the skirt and the outer lip of the spa. This intense heat can actually damage the outer lip of the spa. A gusseted skirt allows this heat to escape, preventing heat damage from occurring. The skirts are double sewn into the cover for extra strength and strong enough to lift even the heaviest of covers.
Cover Zippers
The zippers are one of the lesser important parts of a cover. However if anyone ever steps on your cover causing the foam to bow you'll want to remove and turn over the inner foam core. For this reason we only use non-corrosive zippers. Besides having the largest teeth available (prevents debris from causing them to stick), they're rust and chemical corrosion proof. And of coarse they're quadruple stitched for added strength.
Cover Thread
With the entire cover being stitched together, the thread is also an important
aspect to consider (some cover manufacturers heat seal their vinyl together, but the
seams tend to become very brittle in the hot sun and freezing cold).
The thread used in our covers is a 93#, UV resistant, bonded, Dacron Polyester thread. The polyester part is what important, unlike cotton thread it won't rot out in a short period of time, and the UV resistance prevents any degradation form the sun. "Bonded" means that it's actually water tight and can't absorb mildew causing moisture. The 93# is the weight of the thread and the entire cover is double stitched (except for the hinge which is quadruple stitched).
Meets ASTM Standards for a Safety Spa Cover
ASTM (American Society of Testing: and Materials) has developed a standard for both swimming pool and Spa Covers. This Standard, ASTM F 1346-91, establishes three separate cover classifications;
- Power Safety Covers, typically found on swimming pools
- Manual Safety Covers, such as the spa insulating covers and
- Other Covers, which do not serve as a barrier for children under the age of five and do not qualify as a safety cover.
In order for a spa cover to meet the requirements for a "Manual Safety Spa Cover" it must meet certain requirements which include performance tests and labeling requirements. Covers must be able to pass tests such as Static Load Tests for weight support, Perimeter Deflection Tests for entry or entrapment between the cover and the side of the spa and Surface Drainage Tests to see if a dangerous amount of rain could collect on the covers surface. There are also requirements to include labeling in consumer information (such as the warranty), and on the cover itself. Labeling must contain the proper warnings, and identify the product as a safety cover.
Non-safety covers can meet ASTM standards if they comply with the labeling requirements for "other covers". If a covers labeling does not say "safety", then it only meets non-safety cover standards. In order to legitimately bear a safety label, a cover must be able to pass the tests that satisfy the performance standards of ASTM F 1346-91.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does a new cover weigh?
How much weight will a spa cover hold?
What is the importance of a gusseted skirt?
Is heat sealing the inner wrapping important?
Why don't you have a grommet in the drain hole on the bottom of the cover?
What are the ASTM standards for a spa cover and why are they important?
How long should I expect a spa cover to last?
What can I do to extend the life of my spa cover?
How important is the warranty?
How is the R value of a cover determined?
Can I order my spa cover from the make and model of my spa?
How long till I receive my cover after it's ordered?
Do you keep covers in stock to order from?
Why do tie downs rip out?
Can I just replace the foam in my existing cover?
Can I replace only the outer covering on my existing cover?
What causes the underside of some covers to sag and droop into the water?
Why do some spa covers get so heavy as they get older?
Why do some covers use a welt cording?
What have your customers been saying about you?
I read this on another site....
How much does a new cover weigh?
Below is a table listing some general sizes and approximate weights.
| 72" round | 84" square | 84" octagon | 96" square | 96" octagon | |
| 6" x 4" 1# | 22 | 38 | 34 | 42 | 38 |
| 6" x 4" 1½# | 28 | 46 | 42 | 48 | 44 |
| 4" x 2" 1# | 22 | 32 | 30 | 36 | 34 |
| 4" x 2" 1½# | 24 | 36 | 34 | 40 | 36 |
| 4" x 2" 2# | 26 | 40 | 36 | 44 | 38 |
How much weight will a spa cover hold?
People frequently ask how much weight a cover will hold. While all of our covers meet or exceed ASTM Standard F1346-91¹, there is not specific weight rating for each specific thickness and density of foam. There are many reasons for covers not having a "weight rating" or "load rating", but the most prevalent would be general liability issues.
That being said, the chart below compares the overall strength of different foam densities and thicknesses. This comparison is based upon an 8' square cover, of the longest industry standard, of 4" to 2" tapered foam with a density of #1 (with a rating of 1). A rating of 2 would be twice as strong as a rating of 1, a rating of 3 is 50% stronger than a rating of 2 etc.
| #1 | #1½ | #2 | #3 | total cubic feet of foam | average thickness | |
| 3" x 2" taper (weight²) {R-Value³} |
0.83 (13²) {9.6³} |
1.25 (20²) {10³} |
1.66 (26.5²) {10.9³} |
3.32 (40²) {12.5³} |
13.28 | 2½ |
| 4" x 2" taper (weight²) {R-Value³} |
1 (16²) {11.5³} |
The Deluxe 1½ (24²) {12³} |
2 (32²) {13³} |
4 (48²) {15³} |
16 | 3 |
| 4" x 3" or 4½" x 2½" taper (weight²) {R-Value³} |
1.17 (18²) {13.5³} |
1.75 (27²) {14³} |
>2.33 (36.5²) {15.2³} |
4.66 (55²) {17.5³} |
18.24 | 3½ |
| 5" x 3" taper (weight²) {R-Value³} |
1.33 (21²) {15.4³} |
1.99 (32²) {16³} |
2.66 (42.5²) {17.4³} |
5.32 (64²) {20³} |
21.28 | 4 |
| 6" x 4" taper (weight²) {R-Value³} |
The Extreme 1.66 (26.5²) {19.3³} |
2.49 (40²) {20³} |
3.32 (53²) {21.8³} |
6.64 (80²) {25³} |
26.56 | 5 |
¹ - 7.1.1 In the case of a pool with a width or diameter not greater than 8 ft (2.4 m) the cover shall withstand the weight of 275 lb (125 kg) (weight of a child and an adult).
² - This is the weight of the foam only (rounded off to the closest full pound), and does not include the vinyl. For estimation purposes ad 20 pounds for the vinyl
³ - Listed R-value is based only on the foam and does not include the additional insulation value provided by the vinyl covering, polyethylene vapor barrier (R-0.85) or other materials involved in the construction of the cover.
What is the importance of a gusseted skirt?
One piece continuous skirts, which are easier to manufacture, have many inherent problems as compared to skirts that are gusseted (also called "slits"). Gusseted skirts not only hang much straighter, but also have less of a tendency to bunch-up under the cover when putting it on your spa. If the skirt folds under the cover it prevents a proper seal between the cover and spa, greatly reducing the covers insulating ability.
More importantly though, as the sun beats down on a cover, extreme heat can build up between the skirt and the outer lip of the spa. This intense heat can actually damage the outer lip of the spa. A gusseted skirt allows this excessive heat to escape, preventing heat damage from occurring.
Is heat sealing the inner wrapping important?
The most common cause of spa cover failure is due to the foam cores absorbing moisture. Besides the moisture causing the cover to gain excessive weight, the saturation also greatly reduces the insulating ability of the cover. One of the most important features of an insulating is the vapor barrier surrounding the foam. Not only is the type of material and it's thickness important, but how it's sealed is also important.
The simplest way to seal the foam is to simply wrap it in plastic sheeting and tape it closed. Unfortunately the tape will fail rather quickly thereby allowing moisture to penetrate into the foam. The preferred method for sealing the plastic sheeting is to properly heat seal it. Special care must be taken when heat sealing, otherwise failure can occur prematurely. Just the right temperature must be applied to the plastic sheeting to achieve a proper seal. Too hot and it will become brittle and crack open, too cool and it wont remain sealed. The ideal temperature will literally "weld" the polyethylene together.
Single-extruded, polyethylene sheeting has proven to be the best type of plastic to use for sealing the foam. Our machinery used for heat sealing is thermostatically controlled to maintain exact temperature tolerances. We also use a very heavy, 6 mil polyethylene and seal it extra wide, to assure years of performance. One of the options we offer is to double wrap the foam core with the polyethylene sheeting, which further extends to covers lifespan.
Why don't you have a grommet in the drain hole on the bottom of the cover?
All spa covers must have a drain hole on the underside. This is too allow moisture and condensed water vapor to drain out of the cover. Due to the properties of the two materials we use for the underside, scrim and Reflex Energy Shield, they do not require anything to strengthen this hole or prevent the fabric from fraying. All a grommet would do is cause scratches in the spa as the cover is slid off and on.
What are the ASTM standards for a spa cover and why are they important?
ASTM developed standards which include a category intended to protect children five years of age and under. ASTM Standard F1346-91 for spa covers includes specific performance tests and labeling requirements. Covers must be able to pass certain tests. The first is Static Load. "In the case of spas with a width or diameter greater than 8' from the periphery, the cover shall be able to hold a weight of 485 pounds to permit a rescue operation. In the case of a spa with a width or diameter not greater than 8' the cover shall withstand the weight of 275 pounds". Second is Perimeter Deflection. "The covers shall be designed in such a way that when tested, deflection of the cover does not allow the test object to pass between the cover and the side of the spa, or to gain access to the water". Additionally, testing for surface drainage is conducted to see if a dangerous amount of rain could collect on the cover's surface. There are also requirements to include labeling in consumer information and on the cover itself. Labeling must contain proper warnings (as described by the Standard) and identify the product as a safety cover.
How long should I expect a spa cover to last?
The life-span of a spa cover is dependent upon many different things. How much direct sunlight it gets, how well it's cared for or abused, how extreme weather conditions are and how the chemicals in the spa are dealt with all have an effect on life-span. Generally though, if reasonably cared for a spa cover should last five to eight years.
What can I do to extend the life of my spa cover?
Although very durable, a small amount of general care and maintenance can help extend the life of any spa cover.
- Do not over sanitize the water, and remove the cover when shocking. This is the most important thing. As excessive sanitizers evaporate, they can actually deteriorate many of the plastic materials a spa cover is constructed from.
- Periodically cleaning, treating and protecting the outer vinyl from the elements is the most important thing. 303 Protectant is the best thing for treating and protecting the cover from sun damage. Stay away from any petroleum based products that claim to condition vinyl. They actually do much more harm than good.
- Remove excessive snow to prevent the cover from sagging and possibly breaking.
- Never sit of stand on a spa cover.
How important is the warranty?
As with any product, a comprehensive warranty is important. It's important however, to look closely at, and understand the warranty. Warranties are frequently used as a marketing tool and can be very deceptive. While the warranty may state an extremely long time frame, the exclusions can make it virtually worthless. Some retailers are adding an extremely long extended warranty, to the actual manufacturers warranty, as a marketing ploy. It should be interesting to see if they're still in business (or have any happy customers) towards the end of this time frame.
Most warranties exclude damages caused by animals, fire, vandalism, excessive chemicals, improper installation, excessive weight load, acts of God and possibly more. Almost certainly, they also have an exclusion for "normal wear and tear". What exactly is "normal wear and tear", and who makes the determination on this?
The most important exclusion in all spa cover warranties is "shipping and handling". The customer is ALWAYS responsible for this, and the cover has to be shipped back to the manufacturer and then again back to you. Unless you can personally deliver the cover to the manufacturer, almost certainly the cost of shipping will be MORE than the cost of a brand new cover.
Prorated warranties are some of the most deceptive! It makes it look like the warranty has an even longer time frame, but now you're paying not only for the shipping costs (in both directions, which can be more than the cost of a new cover), but also a percentage of the retail cost.
We have been in the manufacturing business since 1976, and though it's rare, what few warranty problems we've seen, have never occurred after the first year! In fact, almost all have occurred within the first month. Since we started double stitching every aspect of our spa covers, we have never had a warranty problem. While it is stated in our warranty that the cover must be returned to us for repair, we have never required the actual return of an entire cover at the customers expense for repair.
How is the R value of a cover determined?
This is an interesting question, that even we have had to wonder about sometimes. We've seen different retailers offering the same exact spa cover, yet the R-value "claimed" can vary by as much as 30%.
The insulating core of almost all spa covers is EPS (Expanded Polystyrene). The insulating value of this product is very specific, and is listed in the table below. Please note, the R-value shown is for 1 inch of thickness.
| Foam Density | R-Value/in. |
|---|---|
| 1.0 | 3.85 |
| 1¼ | 4.0 |
| 1½ | 4.17 |
| 2.0 | 4.35 |
The average spa cover cores, tapered 4" to 2", made of 1 pound density foam, have a total R-value of R-10.74 (calculated by averaging the thickness). Going to a 2 pound foam increases the R-value to R-13.05. Additionally, some R-value can be added for the vinyl and poly wrap that seals the foam cores. But only about R-2. The R-value of a 1 pound density spa cover only calculates to, at most, R-13 (2 pound = R-15).
Can I order my spa cover from the make and model of my spa?
Preferably not. Unlike cars, spa manufacturers are constantly modifying the spas. Sometimes twice a year!!!!......Although we have thousands of measurements for templates, your measured dimensions are the most accurate and ensure a proper fit.
There are a number of reasons we prefer your actual measurements over our measurements on file;
- Your spa may have warped slightly out of shape over time.
- Manufacturers may have supplied us with fictitious measurements.
- You may want a cover different from the original.
- Your year or model may actually differ from what you believe it is.
- We have a typo, or are simply wrong.
There are some exceptions to this. For spas in which the sides are bowed out and not straight, we most likely have a template. We also are working at acquiring templates for spas that have raised speakers in the corners that require "pockets" in the cover to properly cover them. For these types of spa cover, please call us to check if we have the template and to place an order. We'll need you to tell us the exact brand and model of your spa, and the year of production.
How long till I receive my cover after it's ordered?
Depending upon your location, typical delivery time is two weeks after time of order. Frequently delivery time is much sooner, however during busy times it may be slightly longer. Usually most covers will be manufactured and shipped within a week.
Do you keep covers in stock to order from?
There are literally thousands of different shapes and sizes of spas and hot tubs in existence today, and with all of the manufacturing options we offer, cost and storage space make stocking covers impossible.
Why do tie downs rip out?
Besides excessive force, most tie downs tear out due to poorly designed or poorly made spa covers. While the tie downs shouldn't be use as handles for lifting a cover, they should hold up to quite strong winds. We have virtually eliminated "tie down tear out" by using nylon webbing and sewing it into the cover at 4 different points.
Can I just replace the foam in my existing cover?
In general, the answer is "no". The foam for the cover's core, is initially manufactured in large blocks. It is then cut or sliced to order (we're one of the few manufacturers that starts with whole blocks and slices them ourselves). Most all cover manufacturers use foam cores that are cut specifically for them, to their specifications. Each individual manufacturer specifies the thickness and taper of foam that they desire. Because the foam is almost 1/3 the cost of the materials in a cover, many manufacturers try to "skimp" in this area. We've seen covers advertised as being 4" thick, as thin as 3-1/4" (our foam cores are TRULY as thick as we claim).
Secondly, over time the sun shrinks the outer vinyl covering slightly compressing the foam. A cover can actually shrink up to ½" over it's life.
As said, in GENERAL the answer is no, but it can be done. The real problem is expense! First off we would need to have your cover shipped back to us. If the cover is symmetrical, we can copy the good piece of foam. If it's not symmetrical (or both piece of foam are broken), we can through a little trial and error cut a new piece of foam (start a hair large, try it for fit, and trim if necessary). It's rather imperative that the foam core be exactly the correct size. Too large and it wont fit, too small and the outer vinyl will wrinkle and sag.
The problem though is shipping expense. The covers are too large for UPS and have to ship via common carrier. Common carriers have a MINIMUM shipping charge of around $75.00 to $100.00........ Each way. Though a new foam core may seem reasonably priced, when you add in shipping both ways, it can cost almost as much as a whole NEW cover for just a single foam core.
Can I replace only the outer covering on my existing cover?
Just like trying to replace the foam cores, replacing just the vinyl outer covering usually isn't cost effective. Our entire process for making spa covers, including patterns, cutting the vinyl and other fabrics, and cutting the foam cores, is completely computerized. The additional work involved to make a proper fitting vinyl covering could cost as much or more than a complete new spa cover.
What causes the underside of some covers to sag and droop into the water?
Besides the obvious reason of a loosely fitted vinyl covering, the frequent cause of sagging is excessive air inside the polyethylene that seals the foam cores. Manufactured at cool temperatures, once on your spa the additional heat of the water will cause any trapped air in a cover to expand. It's important (though difficult) to vacuum out any air that might be trapped during the process of sealing the foam cores in the polyethylene.
Why do some spa covers get so heavy as they get older?
The foam a cover's cores are made of is called Expanded Polystyrene and is made of small beads that are expanded with steam. Once expanded they are dried and then "attached together" simply by compressing them. The more pressure they are compressed under, the high the density of the foam. The individual "beads" are waterproof! HOWEVER, water can saturate between the beads.
To prevent (actually reduce) water absorption, the foam cores are "sealed" in polyethylene. The method used to seal the polyethylene is an important factor. Many cheep covers simply have the polyethylene taped closed. Not good, as the tape will eventually fail. Better covers have the polyethylene heat sealed. While this is usually better than tape, if not done carefully and properly it can actually be worse. When the polyethylene is heat sealed, if it's over heated the seam will be excessively brittle and can crack, allowing water to enter the foam.
The most obvious cause of water absorption would be a small hole punctured through the cover. Even the smallest hole will allow a large amount of water to enter the foam over time.
The most common cause of water absorption is the "natural degradation of the polyethylene". Over time, chlorine, bromine, non-chlorine shock and ozone will break down the polyethylene causing it to become porous. The thicker the polyethylene (we use a 6 mil thick polyethylene), the longer it will resist this chemical degradation. At some point however, it will become porous enough to allow evaporation and steam to penetrate through it. It WILL NOT be porous enough to allow the steam that has condensed back into water to drip back out.
Since eliminating all the chemicals isn't possible (and still have a safe spa) the best preventative measure is a floating blanket. The blanket will greatly reduce both chemical off gassing, and more importantly evaporation. It's also important to completely remove the cover for a minimum of 20 minutes when shocking the water. This will allow the off-gassing chemicals to freely escape without penetrating into the cover itself.
Why do some covers use a welt cording?
Welt cording is a feature that is typically used to "straighten" out crookedly sewn seams. The down side is that it gives dirt and mold a place to attach, and gives an extra 'ridge' to get hung or torn when handling the cover. We prefer to simply work a little harder and sew straight seams.
What have your customers been saying about you?
There have been quite a few fine compliments about our spa covers. Following are just a few;
Thank you so much for the great workmanship on our new Hot Tub cover. It turned out much better than we anticipated, and was well built to boot! What a difference in protection, water run-off, color, and construction. I know that most of the time, we only hear about the "Bad" things... but I just wanted to let you know how "Good" your product is.
Count me in as a VERY satisfied customer, and will happily turn more customers your way!
Thanks again...
-Gary Thurman-
I have to write and tell you what a pleasant experience we had doing business with your company.
We stumbled across your webpage while trying to put our lives back together after Hurricane Charley came swirling through Charlotte County, Florida.
Your information was clear and your prices seemed fair, so we measured our spa, decided on the colors and options we wanted, and e-mailed off our order.
Your followup was excellent, and your packing, shipping and delivery were perfect.
Our spa now looks brand new, and we're getting at least that portion of our life back to normal. Thanks for making one home in Punta Gorda look better than it did before this terrible hurricane season!
Bob & Mary Ann Bengtson
I just received our new hot tub cover from you and it�s fantastic! The workmanship is outstanding and is exactly to spec.
Thank you for you easy-to-follow instructions and great product. It has been a pleasure doing business with you and I will pass the word about your fine offerings!
Brian Walker
Hello, we ordered a hot tub cover and lifter and just wanted to thank you. This is our third cover in ten years and want you to know that this is by far THE BEST one yet!!! I will be sending you some customers, our friends all have hot tubs and will be needing covers and lifters. You have great prices, great quality, and free shipping.
Thanks again, Paula Clingerman
Some weeks back I ordered a new cover for our hot tub and a cover lift. Both arrived in excellent condition and both are installed. I just want to thank you for excellent products and how well the cover fits and how the lift operates.
I am truly a satisfied customer and if and when I need any additional parts, supplies or optional accessories, I'll be back.
Tom Wagner
Hi Dear;
I got my spa Cover today ;-)Please send me some Business Cards so I can spread the news about your excellent service!
Take care, Michael
Just wanted to let you know how nice it is to have a new cover. It's so light weight, but works so well at keeping the heat in, that I've had to turn down my thermostat! The EZ-lifter is well worth the extra money, too! I bought my hot tub because of my bad back, but with my old lid, I had to find someone to lift it so I could get in when I wanted. No more!!! I can now lift the lid up and out of the way with the lifter and enjoy a healing soak anytime I please! Thank you for this and the best part is, for what I paid for both, it would have cost me much more for just a cover alone, at any outside retail store!
You guys are great!!!
Sincerely,
Michelle Thomas
Recently, I spoke to one of your representatives on the phone and ordered a cover. My order was delivered within the time specified and arrived in great condition. Your organization as a whole handled my order with nothing but professionalism. I will definitely be doing business with you in the future. Your customer service was awesome, something you do not see that much of now a days. Great Job!!!
Mark Boulet
Hello,
Just wanted to say Thank-you for such great service. Our new cover came and fits perfectly,,
including the 2 inch corners that you called and asked us about. It looks nice!! We liked that you
sent a confirmation letter about our order, called and asked us a question about our measurements
when they sounded different to you AND the order arrived much earlier than the estimate (great to be
earlier than later!!).
Thank you,
LeeAnn and Bill Cooper
I just wanted to say thank you. I received my custom made hot tub cover a few weeks ago and it fits perfect. I was a little leary ordering from a company over the internet that I had never used before. Your directions for measuring the cover were so helpful and you delivered everything you promised. Great Job!
Donna Schlosser
Have received the spa cover I ordered.
WOW!!!
It fits perfect and is a better quality than the original one which came with the spa.
Thanks!!!
Everett Sullivan
I read this on another site....
We've seen some rather interesting "claims and statements" throughout the years regarding spa covers. Here's a list of some of the most "interesting", and the "other side" of the story.
"100% Certified "Spa Hyde" 5x stronger than marine grade vinyl."
"Spa Hyde" is actually a brand name of a mid-quality marine grade vinyl that is imported from Southeast Asia. There are 3 different "Spa Hydes". Spa Hyde IV, Spa Hyde VI and Spa Hyde IX. #6 & #9 are 27 oz. vinyl, while #4 is 24 oz vinyl. All three of them only have a UV rating of 1000 hours. Our marine grade vinyl is 30 oz. and has a UV rating of 1500 hours."Hand heat sealed vapor barrier to prevent water absorption"
A spa cover's foam cores are sealed in polyethylene sheeting. There are 3 ways to seal this sheeting to make it as water proof as possible. The first is to tape it closed. Although this is the easiest, generally the tape fails rather quickly allowing moisture to penetrate into the foam. The second is to heat seal (melt) the sheeting together by hand. This involves using a hand held "clamp" type mechanism, clamping in onto the plastic and counting the seconds to a predetermined time, then removing the clamp and moving on to the next area to seal. As you may be able to tell from the description, this is not a very exacting method. The third method involves using an automated machine to heat seal the sheeting. This is what we use. To get the perfect seal, the temperature must be within 10 degrees and the time of the sealing process within 2 tenths of a second of the predetermined settings. Any further off and the seal will fail prematurely (rather difficult to do by "hand sealing)."Selling factory direct"
This phrase can be a bit misleading. Usually it's interpreted as meaning the website you're buying from is the manufacturer of the product. Unfortunately in most cases it really means that the web site is drop shipping the product from the actual manufacturer to you. Frequently there's little if any contact information other than a phone number (no address listed). At the time of this writing we are one of only four actual manufacturers selling directly to consumers via the internet, yet more than 18 separate web sites claim to be.
"We offer the longest warranty in the business"
If you can't find a better warranty today, look again next week. Warranties are becoming one of the biggest marketing ploys around. Read the warranty CAREFULLY and you'll likely find that all it covers is MANUFACTURERS DEFECTS. With almost 30 years of manufacturing behind us, it has been our experience that almost all "defects" will show up within the first few months, possible as long as a year after purchase, but NEVER have we, nor any other manufacturer we know, seen a defect after more than about 18 months.
Another thing to consider is WHO is "issuing" the warranty. Many internet retailers are now adding on their own warranty on top of the actual manufacturers warranty to give the appearance of a longer warranty time. ANY warranty is only as good as the company issuing it. Chances are a company that's been around for 25 or 30 years is going to continue to be around to stand by it's warranty...... A three year old internet company may be another story.
LIMITED 4 YEAR WARRANTY
We warrant our insulating covers to the original purchaser, to be free from defects in material and workmanship, under normal usage, for a period of 4 years (48 months) from the date of delivery to the original consumer. Such limited warranty does not cover damages caused by animals, fire, vandalism, excessive chemicals, improper installation and strain, abuse or abrasion, acts of God or use for purposes other than that for which the cover was designed. Ordinary wear and tear, delamination and seam splitting due to improper handling are not considered to be a defect in workmanship or material. Foam cores are covered for up to 2½ years* (30 months). Any expressed or implied warranty is limited in duration to 4 years (48 months) from the date of delivery to the original purchaser-consumer. Seller shall not be liable for any incidental or consequential damages.
Any insulating cover deemed by us to have failed due to defects in materials or workmanship within four years (48 months)from date of purchase will be repaired or replaced, at our option, without charge for materials or labor (excludes cost of freight to and from the manufacturer).
Foam cores are warranted against water absorption for a period of 1 year. However on covers that have the double wrapped foam cores, and a floating blanket is properly used in conjunction with the insulating cover, the foam cores will be warranted against water absorption for a period of 2½ years (30 months). Warranty of foam cores is void if any holes have been found to puncture or penetrate either the outer covering or inner seal.
Warranty does NOT cover improper use or any of the following:
Insulating cover has been subjected to alteration, misuse, abuse, or if any repairs on the cover are attempted by anyone other than our authorized representatives, unless express written approval is given.
Foam breakage or tearing of vinyl (this cover is not intended to be walked, stood, or sat upon, or any excessive weight caused by rain, water, snow, animals, or any other acts of God.
Damage due to excessive chemicalization of water or contact with other chemicals on the cover material (this includes the use of Armorall).
Fading of vinyl and thread is not considered a defect and will naturally occur due to normal chemical maintenance,exposure to the elements and aging.
Torn handles (handles are for the sole purpose of opening and closing covers only, and NOT intended to be used to carry or remove cover from the spa/hot tub.
Scuffing & Chafing or wearing holes in cover by dragging or storing/leaning against sharp objects.
Damage caused by improper installation, or during transportation from the dealer to purchaser.
Any damage resulting from any misuse, abuse, negligence, acts of God, accident or alteration, (i.e. coverlifts, animals and excessive weight or wind).
To Obtain Warranty Service
Contact seller to obtain instructions on where to present the defective or failed cover along with a copy of the original bill of sale showing date of purchase, and the original warranty. No returns will be accepted without a prior issued "returned goods authorization".
Purchaser is responsible for the return of the insulating cover and the shipping charges, from the dealer to the manufacturer.
Manufacturer will repair or replace at the manufacturer's discretion any defects, if upon inspection by the manufacturer it is determined to be covered by the warranty.
Implied Warranties: The only express warranties are set herein and any implied warranties, including the implies warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purchase, are limited in duration to that of the expresses warranties. This warranty does not cover consequential damages or incidental damages including damage to property or injury arising for the use or inability to use this product. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of consequential of incidental damages, so the above limitation may not apply to you.
PRODUCT DISCLAIMER
Don't walk, sit, stand, or play on the cover, never swim or play under the cover.
Order your new spa cover up to 8' (96")
For covers over 8' long, please see the Swim Spa Cover ordering page
Please allow approximately 4 weeks from time of order to delivery of insulating spa covers (less in the off-season, possibly slightly longer in-season).
Once again, these spa covers are made to your specifications, we can not be responsible for miss-measured spa covers