Hopefully we're not the first to tell you that owning a spa, just like a car or beautiful
garden requires periodic maintenance and upkeep. While there's lots of products to greatly
help reduce the amount of chemical use and maintenance time, NOTHING will make your spa
totally maintenance and chemical free. Without a doubt, the most important aspect of spa
care is the chemical balance of the water. You might even say that adjusting the chemical
balance of your spa water is like feeding it. Feed your spa right and it will be healthy,
feed it wrong and it'll get sick. And you know what doctor bills are like. The
important to remember is that a spa is very different from a swimming pool
(four people in a spa is the equivalent to having 300 people in an average size pool).
With the combination of high temperatures and ratio of people to water, problems can
occur. Residual soaps, deodorants, perfumes and other cosmetics, natural body oils and
perspiration are released into the spa water which can cause other organic contaminates.
For this reason you should use products that are especially formulated for spa and hot tub
use.
Spa water testing is much easier and painless than you may imagine. What's more,
regularly spa water testing and adjusting will increase the life of your spa and it's
equipment.
Spa Water Testing Tips
Liquid Test Kits
- Test-kit reagents deteriorate over time and will eventually give you false results.
Always check the expiration dates and follow the manufacturer's instructions for usage and
storage.
- It's very important to clean your test kit after each use. Any residual chemicals can
falsify future tests.
- Circulate the water before testing and take the water sample from at least 12 inches
below the surface.
- Read your results immediately using a brightly lighted background, preferably white.
- Do not use your fingers in place of a test vial cap because the oils from your skin can
skew your results.
Test Strips
- Test strips deteriorate over time and will eventually give you false results. Always
check the expiration dates and follow the manufacturer's instructions for usage and
storage.
- Circulate the water before testing and take the water sample from at least 12 inches
below the surface.
- Do not put your fingers inside the container to remove strips (oils from your skin can
contaminate the remaining test strips).
- Keep container tightly closed. Allowing moisture into the container can ruin the test
strips.
Balancing Your Water
Basic supplies for testing and adjusting your
hot tub water.
- Test strips or test kit
- Water hardness test strips
- Spa Up (alkalinity increaser)
- Spa Down (pH & alkalinity decreaser)
- pH Up (pH increaser, pH up or soda ash)
- pH Down (pH decreaser, pH down or spa acid)
- Hardness Up (Calcium Booster)
- pH Balance (optional)
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Spa Water Balancing
Quick Chart
- Chlorine: 1.5 - 3.0 ppm
- Bromine: 3.0 - 5.0 ppm
- pH: 7.2 - 7.8
- Total Alkalinity: 80 - 120 ppm
- Calcium Hardness: 200 - 400 ppm
- Total Dissolved Solids: 1,500 ppm above your start-up TDS
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The Basics
TOTAL ALKALINITY
Total alkalinity the measure of all the alkaline material in the water, or it's ability
to neutralize acid (or the water's buffering capacity). It is really an indicator of the
ability of the water to resist changes in pH. Always test for total alkalinity (TA) first,
using test strips or kit. The acceptable range is 60-180 PPM. If below 60 PPM, add Spa
Up until a reading of about 100-120 PPM is reached. If above 180, add Spa Down
until a reading of about 120-140 PPM is attained.
High total alkalinity |
Low total alkalinity |
- Hard to change pH
- Scale formation
- Cloudy water
- Skin and eye irritation
- Poor sanitizer efficiency
|
- Rapid changes in pH or "pH bounce"
- Corroded metals/equipment
- Skin and eye irritation
|
To Raise Total Alkalinity With Spa Up
Gallons
of Water
|
Desired Increase in Parts Per Million (ppm)
|
10 ppm
|
20 ppm
|
30 ppm
|
40 ppm
|
50 ppm
|
60 ppm
|
70 ppm
|
80 ppm
|
90 ppm
|
100 ppm
|
100
|
1 1/2 tsp
|
1 TBS
|
1 1/2 TBS
|
2 TBS
|
2 1/2 TBS
|
3 TBS
|
3 1/2 TBS
|
1/4 cup
|
1/3 cup
|
1/3 cup
|
1000
|
1/3 cup
|
1/2 cup
|
1 cup
|
1 cup
|
1 1/2 cup
|
1 3/4 cup
|
2 cup
|
2 1/2 cup
|
2 3/4 cup
|
3 cup
|
To Lower Total Alkalinity With Dry Acid (Sodium Bisulfate)
Gallons
of Water
|
Desired Decrease in Parts Per Million (ppm)
|
10 ppm
|
20 ppm
|
30 ppm
|
40 ppm
|
50 ppm
|
60 ppm
|
70 ppm
|
80 ppm
|
90 ppm
|
100 ppm
|
100
|
1 1/2 tsp
|
1 TBS
|
1 1/2 TBS
|
2 TBS
|
2 1/2 TBS
|
3 TBS
|
1/4 cup
|
1/4 cup
|
1/3 cup
|
1/3 cup
|
1000
|
1/3 cup
|
2/3 cup
|
1 cup
|
1 1/4 cup
|
1 1/2 cup
|
2 cup
|
2 1/4 cup
|
2 1/2 cup
|
3 cup
|
3 1/4 cup
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pH
pH indicates how acidic or alkaline your spa water is. pH is measured on a 14 point
scale, with 7-8 being neutral for bathers. A pH reading below 7 would be acidic and one
above 8 would be alkaline. The acceptable range is 7.2 to 7.8 . If below 7.2, add Soda Ash
until a reading of about 7.4 is reached. Spa Up may also be used, but keep in mind
that Spa Up will also raise the total alkalinity, so if the TA is already high, you
must use Soda Ash. If the pH is above 7.8, add Spa Down until a reading of about
7.6 is reached.
Once pH adjustments have been made, you can lock pH into balance by adding pH
Balance and there should be no need for further adjustments for at least 3 months!
Note: pH holding products are not recommended in areas with high water hardness (above 500
PPM).
High pH alkalinity |
Low pH alkalinity |
- Poor sanitizer efficiency
- Cloudy water
- Frequent filter cleaning
- Scale formation
- Skin and eye irritation
|
- Poor sanitizer efficiency
- Corroded metals/equipment
- Skin and eye irritation
- Destruction of total alkalinity
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CALCIUM HARDNESS
Water hardness is a concentration of the calcium and magnesium in your spa water. The
ideal calcium hardness level for hot tubs and spas is 200-400 PPM. If your level is below
about 150 PPM, some erosion of equipment parts can occur. Low hardness can be corrected
with Calcium Booster (not recommended if you are using pH Balance or other pH
holding products).
High Hardness |
Low Hardness |
- Cloudy water
- Scale formation
- Skin and eye irritation
- Foamy water
|
- Corroded metals/equipment
- Cloudy water
- Foamy water
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DISSOLVED SOLIDS
Total dissolved solids or TDS is absolutely everything dissolved in your spa water,
from metals to chlorine to alkalinity to sulfates and salts. The acceptable range of TDS
in spas is 1,500 ppm above your start-up TDS. If you have a problem with TDS, spa water
may taste salty or it may have a tint to it, although there isn't any clouding. You might
also get false test readings, among other things.
SANITIZE
A disinfectant level of 3-5 parts per million (PPM) bromine or chlorine is necessary to
continuously kill bacteria. Bromine, unlike chlorine, is effective even after
disinfecting. It has a less offensive odor and causes less irritation than chlorine. It's
more pH stable, and easier to maintain in the proper level by using tablets in a
convenient floating dispenser. However, being more stable than chlorine it can be more
difficult to remove the odor from your skin. Even if your spa is equipped with an
ozonator, you should still use a sanitizer and shock treatment.
To Raise Chlorine Level One part Per Million (1 ppm)
Gallons
of Water
|
% Active Chlorine In Product
|
5%
|
10%
|
12%
|
35%
|
50%
|
65%
|
80%
|
85%
|
90%
|
100
|
1/2 tbs
|
1/4 tbs
|
1/4 tbs
|
1/5 tsp
|
1/8 tsp
|
1/10 tsp
|
1/12 tsp
|
1/13 tsp
|
1/14 tsp
|
1000
|
1/3 cup
|
1/5 cup
|
1/8 cup
|
2 1/6 tsp
|
2 tsp
|
1 tsp
|
3/4 tsp
|
3/4 tsp
|
2/3 tsp
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SANITIZER NOTES
Chlorine and Bromine are in the chemical family known as Halogens. They are powerful
oxidizers, which means they literally burn up organic matter in the water. Outside
of water they need to be handled with care. Bromine and chlorine
should never be stored where they may come in contact with each other as a chemical
reaction can occur which could cause a fire. They should never be mixed together in
a dry container. Bromine and chlorine should never be switched in the same feeder. Even
though empty, these feeders have residue which could react. When handling chemicals they
shouldn't come in contact with any fertilizers, petroleum products or anything organic
including Cigarette ashes. All chemicals should be stored in an area where
there are no metals present because the gases escaping will attack these metals.
Even though it seems convenient, this includes the underside cabinet on a portable spa.
Extensive damage can occur to the equipment and spa electronics.
SHOCK
Shock treatment is best accomplished by the addition of an oxidizer to the water to
break down organic contaminates. These contaminants include dirt, soap films, oils and
perspiration, along with ammonia and nitrates (bather by-products). Free chlorine will
readily combine with these chemicals producing compounds known as chloramines
(smells strongly like chlorine, but has no 'killing' effect). Filters do not always trap
these and other very small particles. If they are allowed to remain in the water, they can
provide a food source for bacteria and algae. Bromine will also combine to form
bromamines, but bromamines retain their sanitizing ability. Shocking rearranges the
chemical structure to free up the chlorine or bromine to its most active state for
sanitizing. Chlorine based shocks also kill off any organic matter (bacteria) that
may have gotten a 'foothold' and become resistant to normal amounts of sanitizers.
Water Troubleshooting
| PROBLEM |
POSSIBLE CAUSES |
SOLUTIONS |
| Cloudy water |
Filter problems |
Inspect filter cartridge for tearing and cracking. |
| Microscopic particles too small to filter out. |
Test and adjust all chemicals and add 2 oz. of Spa Bright and Clear to cause the particles to combine together so they can be filtered out. |
High TDS levels
High total alkalinity
High pH levels
High TDS levels |
Test all chemical levels and make the appropriate
adjustments. |
| Skin irritation |
Improper pH or Total Alkalinity levels |
Test all chemical levels and make the appropriate adjustments. |
| Eye irritation |
Low sanitizer levels or excess 'combined chlorine.' |
Test all chemical levels with an accurate test kit and make the
appropriate adjustments. Shock your spas water with Renew or Oz tabs per instructions. |
| Algae growth |
Low sanitizer levels |
Shock your spas water with Renew or Oz tabs per instructions.
Brush the spa walls. Run the filter for a 24-hour period to increase distribution of
sanitizer and add Spa Algaecide. |
| Excessive foam |
Buildup of body oils or cosmetics. |
Generally there will also be a water line around the top of the spa
(see next problem). If no water line is present you can try using Spa Foam Down to break
up the contaminants and then Spa Bright and Clear to help filter them away. If a water
line is present the spa should be drained and cleaned. Either way, the filter should be
thoroughly cleaned by soaking over night in Spa Cartridge Clean. An oil absorbing sponge
can help in preventing this in the future. |
| Laundry detergent residual in swimwear. |
Run an extra rinse cycle on the washing machine or re-rinse well by
hand. |
| Excess organic contaminants |
Some organic matter is prone to causing foamy water as it breaks down
in the filter (maple leaves especially). Generally using Spa Foam Down to break up the
contaminants, then Spa Bright and Clear to help filter them away followed by thoroughly
cleaning your filter will clear up the problem. It may however be necessary to drain and
refill your spa if the foaming is quite excessive. |
| Low Total Hardness |
Test water with a Total Hardness Test Kit and if necessary increase
with Calcium Booster. |
| High Total Hardness |
Test water with a Total Hardness Test Kit . If high, change the
water. |
| Excess bromine |
Generally the water will also have a green tint to it. The spa will
need to be drained and refilled, and the bromine feeder adjusted correctly. |
| Oily water line |
Body oils, dirt, soaps |
Scum line may be able to be removed with paper towel. Alternating
weekly between Spa Bright and Clear and Scum Gone along with frequent filter cleanings
usually eliminates this problem. |
| Unstable pH |
Low total alkalinity levels |
Test total alkalinity levels with an accurate test kit and if necessary
increase with Spa Up. |
| pH resistant to changing |
High total alkalinity levels |
Test total alkalinity levels with an accurate test kit and if necessary
decrease with Spa Down. |
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